TECHNOLOGY – Molly Davy Design

Mud Guard and Connector

BRIEF: The brief for this assignment was to create a mudguard and connector, designed for a specific style of bike. The bike that me and my partner decided to use was an 12 speed road bike. The characteristics of the road bike meant that the mudguard would have cater for the thin wheels.

Chosen Bike: The first stages that I went through when thinking about mudguard designs was make sketch models. I experimented with different sizes and styles. This gave me a greater understanding of where I wanted the mudguard to be connected to the bike (front or back wheel) and the width of the mudguard itself.

SKETCH MODELS:

FINAL DESIGN:

The final design that my partner and I came up with is a slender mudguard suitable for the back wheel of the bike. The mudguard is the perfect proportion to sit comfortably over the wheel and protect the rider from mud sprays. The style of the mudguard gives a cohesive link with the bike, because it gives of the same vintage style that the chosen bike has. The style of the mudguard has a rise going through the middle that tappers down to be flush with the rest of the guard. This relates to the repeated tapering features of the bike.

The rounded end of the guard has been taken from the style used on the bike to connected the metal sections to one another.

SOLID WORKS MUDGUARD FILE: The solid works file is then used with the CNC machine to produce a wooden mold to vacuum form the mudguard.

CNC:

VACUUM FORMING:

To create the mudguard itself, you use the vacuum form machine. The machine heats the plastic, so it become malleable enough to stretch over and form the shape of the wooden mold. Before using the mold, it has to be sanded down with very fine sand paper and sealed. This is so the final design will have a smooth seamless finish. To test out the mold, I used 5mm thin plastic sheets. This gave me a clear idea of how pronounced the details would appear on the final outcome, and how the vacuum former works.

TEST MODEL: I sanded the surface of the plastic with 600grit sandpaper to see if it would be smooth enough for spray paint. I also practiced drilling through the plastic. I knew that I would need to know this for my final model. I was very happy with the outcome of the test model, and ready to mold my final.

CREATION:

For the molding of my final guard, I used PETG UV clear plastic, 1.5mm thick. I set the timer of the vacuum form machine to 34 seconds. The outcome of my first mold wasn’t as crisp as I wanted it to be. It wasn’t tight to the mold around the edges. The second time I molded it, I put it on for 58 seconds. The outcome was much tighter and had a nicer form. I used a dremel saw to cut the guard out. I drew an even line around the edge to where I wanted to sand up to.

I sanded down the surface of the mudguard with 600grit to give an even surface. I purchased a gold spray paint from Car colours as well as a satin top coat to give it a long lasting shining finish. I chose a gold colour to paint the mudguard, because this was the same colour used for the bikes detailing.

It gave a subtle link from the bike to the guard, without letting it blend in to much with the bike.

MUDGUARD CONNECTOR:

When creating my mudguard connector, I started by doing research. I looked at already excising mudguards and began doing some quick sketches.

MUD GUARD POSITION:

The mudguard connector will sit around the brake system.

FINAL DESIGN:

For my final design, I came up with a unique design that fits perfectly onto my chosen bike. Because I was creating a design for the back wheel, I had to make sure that it was able to fit around the old fashion break system. The flat section fits securely onto the bike which will be attached with bolts. The connector sits comfortable under the mudguard itself, which will also be attached with bolts. The design is black which adds the the subtle style of the design. The connector doesn’t look obtrusive among the bike and doesn’t take away from the guard. Printed connector:

After getting my first connector printed, I realised that the middle section was to short. The connector was unable to fit around the brake. The other sections of the part, (flat section and end) fit perfectly onto the bike and connector. I went back to solid works and made the middle section 1.5cm longer. This would hopefully give a comfortable fit around the brake.

Second Printed connector:

The second connector fit perfectly on the bike.

Printed:

I purchased dome headed bolts from ‘Anzor’ to give a polished feel to the final outcome.

FINAL DESIGN:

BEFORE AND AFTER MUDGUARD:

Presentation Boards:

REPLICATION OF A TAPE DISPENSER

Chosen Tape Dispenser Design: The first steps I went through when creating my tape dispenser replica was measuring each section of the inside spool that holds the sellotape in place. I started with the spool because it is the center of the design, that all the sides are formatted around. I created a 3D sketch on ‘Solid Works’ so it was able to be 3D printed.

FINAL PRINTED SPOOL:

Next I measured all sections of the sides and connecting section of the tape dispenser . I made a white foam model to give myself an idea of what the final dispenser size will look like compared to the original. I followed this by creating a gold foam model to give myself a polished exact replica of the dispenser to follow. I achieved this by sanding down the faces to the exact thickness of the sides (5mm) and realistic rounded edges. FOAM MODEL: I was happy with the outcome as it looked exactly like the original dispenser. The next step was to create a sketch of the sides and middle section on solid works to be laser cut . Because both sides of the dispenser are identical I only had to design one half, and get it cut twice. I used 5mm thick MDF because it is the same thickness of the actual designs sides. The middle connecting section, it is 2.5mm thick. I was unable to purchased MDF this thick, so I glued to sheets of 1.25mm thick MDF together before being laser cut. 1.25mm thick MDF is too thick to be laser cut completely through, so I had the design etched onto the wood with the laser cutter that I then used the Bandsaw to cutout.

SOLIDWORKS AND MEASUREMENTS:

CREATION: Firstly I sanded down all the edges and faces to get rid of the rough exteriour. I primed the wood , sanded the sections the spray painted the surfaces. I got the spray paint from “Car Colours”. I got the paint custom made to create the exact colour, for a realistic finish.

FINAL DESIGN:

PLANES AND SPACE

TASK:

The compositional principles that I am going to explore is the use of linear and planar shapes in the form of both extended and compact sculptures.

Linear Definition: Arranged in or extending along a straight or nearly straight line.

Planar Definition: relating to or in the form of a plane.

Extended Definition: Elements or clusters of parts will be in more distant relationships (actual or implied), with the space between parts playing an important role in the overall composition.

Compact Definition: Elements will be arranged in close proximity to each other and the overall ‘spatial envelope’ for the composition will be ‘tight’, relationships between the parts will be ‘intense’

The task is to create two final sculptures (one compact and one extended) that have to ability to support a white ping pong ball.

RESEARCH:

The first steps that I went through when beginning the task was reasearch. To begin, I started by looking up different sculptures to give myself an idea about what styles I was interested in and somes ideas to base my initial sketch models around. Personally, I am into the minimalism side of sculptures. I like simple clean designs. I looked up different types of models and sculptures ranging from 3D prints, to hand made Balsa wood models.

After researching, I decided that for my models, I wanted to play with the use of shadows. I like how the shadows of sculptures can give an ambiance of giving more life to the piece. I also like the “cage” effect that some of the sculptures give. This gave me the idea of making the ping pong ball “hover” inside a caged like model.

Materials:

For materials I wanted to use something that was easy to work with and cut into. I decided on foam board. The foam board comes in both black and white which are nice clean crisp colours that are simple and photograph well. Another material that I wanted to work with was a thin malleable wire. I think that the look of silver wire against the white would compliment each other. By wrapping the wire around points in the models, it is a “delicate” way to attach different sections together.

SKETCH MODELS:

To begin drafting ideas I created sketch models. In the sketch models, I was experimenting with both linear and planar features, and how they can fit into the compact and extended models.

Extended:

I used planar shapes as a base, that I then extended linear sections off from. The linear features made the model “extended” by giving space in between the pieces.

I wanted to combined all the elements together in an interesting way. I punctured the linear shapes through the planar pieces as away to connect them instead of using glue. I attached the ball with wire to make it look like the ball should be rolling down the model, but instead it is hovering midway.

Compact:

For the compact sketch models, I experimented mainly with “layering” the foam board to create a model that looks like one solid object. I used a lot of planar pieces in the compact sketches because it was easier to make them “tight” against one another. I prefered the look of the long linear lines stacked onto each other, I wanted to use this technique in my final compact model.

DESIGN PROCESS:

For both my extended and compact models, I incorporated a range of different elements from my sketch models into my finals. I found it very useful doing the sketch models, because it gave me a chance to see what would and wouldn’t work before jumping into my final. I made one change at a time so I could see what was actually helping to make a good design, and what wasn’t. Since the beginning of the design process, I wanted to have two “simple” clean design outcomes. I was careful not to over do the changes, and end up with a design that was overworked.

Extended Design Process:

Compact Design Process:

FINAL MODELS:

Extended:

For my final extended design my main intention was to incorporate both the linear and planar sections together in an engaging way. I did this by cutting slots in the planar foam board and inserting the linear strips through the board. The cuts in the board create very interesting shadows from all angles, depending on where the sun is facing. As for attaching the ball, I wrapped it in wire which gave a “patterned” effect to the ball. This also let the ball hang in a way which makes it look like it is hovering on the underside of the sculpture. I mounted my model on to a black planar shape, this gives the illusion that the model is balancing on thing white strips.

Compact:

For my final compact model, I wanted to use linear pieces attached tightly together to create a compact solid sculpture. I used the shell of a pyramid that I inserted the ball inside in a way that it rested on a strip and appears to be hovering. Every angle of my compact final gives a different feel to the model. For example, on one side the ball is completely exposed, making the sculpture feel “open”. From the backside of the model, the materials are very tight, and the ball appears to be trapped inside. This style comes directly from my original research where I was very interested in the “cage” styled models.

SANDWICH BOX DESIGN

ABOUT “THE CYCLING SANDWICH”

“The Cycling Sandwich” is a company idea I designed, that delivers sandwiches to the people of New Zealand with the transport of bicycle delivery.
First the consumer makes their order on an online site that lets you choose from options such as, bread, fillings, sauce etc. The user inserts their current location address, before a worker delivers the freshly company made sandwich to the buyers doorstep.

The materials used to create the sandwich packaging itself is constructed from thin plastic, paper, and eco friendly card that is completely recyclable. Hence the name the “Cycling” sandwich, as the user is “reCYCLING”. Also, the fact that the deliverer is “Cycling” to the buyer. The benefits of delivering the sandwiches by bicycle is an step towards reducing the nations carbon footprint.

The option of selecting the insides online gives the user a wide range of variety. The sauce comes in a separate mini bottle to apply once receiving the sandwich, to reduce the sogginess of the bread on its journey to the buyer. The style of the box opens up so the consumer can easily reach inside and eat out of the box, catching all crumbs and spills. This is convenient for people who are eating their meal in environments where they want to create minimal mess, this is also useful for quick and easy cleanup. The flat bottom provides a perfect surface for the user to rest the container wherever the please, to enjoy meal time anywhere.

The company’s slogan is “Sandwiches on the go, for people on the go”. This is because the sandwiches can be delivered to anyone, anywhere. This is a great system for busy business workers, and hungry school kids in need of a healthy lunch.

RESEARCH:

Before beginning on starting the task of creating a sandwich container, I dived in to researching different styles of already excising box designs. Here are some examples of designs that caught my eye.

I was very drawn to the “standard box” style of sandwich containers. I think that a box style sandwich container is very convenient, because it is easy to carry around and fit into places. A box style design is easy to eat out of and has a flat bottom that can rest in any location. By creating a simple box design, it is easy for the company to fold together and also creates a flat, one piece net. This simple design looks clean cut and uses minimal material to create, which isn’t as harmful to the environment. After research, I was very content on designing a box style sandwich container.

Materials:

If my container design was to be mass produced. I would only use eco friendly materials, so that my product container wouldn’t be harmful to the environment, as well as being fully recyclable.

DEVELOPMENTS:

To begin my task, I created some simple concept pages experimenting with different styled boxes, labels, and materials. Once I had decided on the basic structure of my box I drew up a “final design” page for what I envisioned my complete container design to look like.

Some important features that I wanted to include were two viewing slots. This is because I wanted the consumer to be able to see that the sandwich was in fact full all the way thru with healthy fillings. The Cycling Sandwich does not cut down on the produce that the sandwich is being filled with.

I wanted the logo to be a simple clean design that can relate to a large target market, (a range of ages, both male and female). I wanted the logo to be eye catching, to draw the buyer to the product. I also wanted the main logo symbol to resemble a bike wheel, as well as including an eco friendly green color to straight off imply that The Cycling Sandwich is clean and green.

Final Photoshop Logo:

For my final packaging, I also wanted to make sure that I had a space on the side to include the logo symbol and nutritional information, so that buyers can recognise the product when it is stacked sideways on a shelf.

CREATION:

My first steps in the create process was to produce a range of handcrafted sketch nets to give myself an idea of what works, and what doesn’t. I needed to make sure that my box wouldn’t open in the delivery process, or if it is being carried around in day to day life.

After practicing many test nets and models, of a range of materials, I found that the best fit was still a box design. I wanted to use moderately thick, but still foldable card that will be durable, and not heavy to carry around. I found that paper was to thin and flimsy. I also tried a thin brown card that didn’t seem like it would hold with the weight of the sandwich.

After lots of trial and error, I managed to produce a final hand drawn net, which I noted all measurements for, ready to insert into ‘Solidworks’.

I had never used Solidworks before, so i downloaded it at home and practiced, practiced, practiced until i felt confident enough to make my final net, ready to be sent to the laser cutter. I feel very comfortable using Solidworks and I am excited to use it more in the future.

I changed the line colours to shades that coincide with actions of the laser cutter. Black= Cut, Red=score. The score lines are used to easily crease the folds of the container once cut.

Final Solidworks net:

I realised that I had accidentally done some overlapping lines when creating my solidworks net, so when I went up to the laser cutter Glen showed me how to remove them. Next time, if I do this again, I will remove them myself, or just redo the entire net, since I know how to use Solidworks more quickly now.

The first time I got my net cut, the laser cutter was set to a slower setting, so when cutting the creases, it actually cut basically through the card. The next time Glen made the laser cut faster, to make a shallow cut, perfect for a crease line.

Final Net:

ASSEMBLING:

The next steps were to assemble my box net and add the stickers (logo and information).

When putting the box together I noticed that I put the top joining slots in the opposite places that they were meant to go.

This was a mistake on my behalf that I now know how to fix for next time. I have learnt from my mistakes. It doesn’t completely affect my container because I added clasps on both the front and the top for extra support, so my box is still able to close. Next time I use Solidworks, I will make sure to be very careful with double checking my design changes.

The final outcome is exactly how I imagined it. The planning and developing really helped create a well planned net to produce a clean cut design that reflects my companies simple eco style and environmentally friendly values.